The Leader of the Band has Died

Today is one of those gut wrenching days. Michael Jackson our friend, our mentor and our nomadic Beer Hunter has gone to the heavens where the angels sleep. For the first time since September of 2001, I am sitting in eerily quiet brewery not really thinking about the production side of beer. Because days like today demand reflection, offer an opportunity to pause for moments and memories and the time spent with a legend.

I realize that there will be numerous forthcoming accounts of Michael’s contributions to the world of beer. 30 years of writing, traveling and consuming can’t go unnoticed. I just finished reading his last column for the upcoming All About Beer Magazine. Eerily, it talks about cheating Mort Subite or Sudden Death. As I was reading, I was struck by his voice in my head narrating that story. It was his very distinguished British voice that sticks with me.

Like many brewers, I had the pleasure of drinking with Michael on numerous occasions. Often, as judges at the GABF and World Beer Cup we would find ourselves at the same table. He was the epitome of a professional when it came to judging. As the world’s foremost authority on beer, he was never overbearing, certainly not egotistical and at the same time, he was inquisitive. I always liked that about him. He also cared about me the person. He offered his condolences when Noah passed away and was elated when Sydney came into my life. I suppose that is what it means to be a friend.

Several years back, Michael implored the judges at the GABF judges reception to consider the strength of American Beer. The world was looking at us for innovation and direction. He decreed we should all work together as judges to reward beers not deconstruct them. It was a very motivating talk. It was also the first time in recent memory where every single medal in every single category was awarded. The man just saw things differently than we did. But above all, he was a great story teller.

With that in mind, here is the one story from my life that I knew I was never going to be able to share with Michael but it’s one that I “think” he would appreciate on some level.

It’s 2005, we are heading from San Diego to Belgium with a brief stop in London. I email Mr. Jackson and let him know that if possible, we would love to stop by for a visit. I would be traveling with Tom Nickel from O’Brien’s Pub, Vince Marsaglia (owner of Pizza Port) along with Ken Allen (owner of Anderson Valley Brewing Company) and his head brewer Dave Gatlin.

Michael agrees and gives me the address in Hammersmith for his office. We arrive later in the afternoon (around 6-7 pm). His office is actually a converted garage attached to his house. Inside this narrow room is row after row of whiskey, beer and editions of nearly every book he has ever written and in each language they have been published.

Michael has been hard at work tasting and writing about whiskey for a forthcoming book. It’s everywhere in this little room. He’s talking to Ken Allen about Anderson Valley when I start playing a game of I spy in my head. I spy an 18 year old port wood finished bottle. I spy a 1973 Glen something or other. But right in front of me, I spied a 1963 Macallan that had been opened. Oh Lordy!!! Would you look at that?

It immediately hit me that this was one serious bottle of booze that I needed to taste. It also struck me that this was about as close to one of these bottles of Scotch that I was ever going to get. I salivated. I contemplated. I damn near stared that bottle down. Michael, to his credit, offers us a glass of some new farmhouse beer. We liked it very much. At this point, it becomes obvious to me that we are making a move towards heading to Andover Arms for dinner. But how can I beg/ ask for a dram of that spirit. Would it be rude to do so? What is the protocol at work here? I am clueless. Thirsty, but incredibly clueless.

That bottle is still staring me down and in no time flat, I might be walking away from what promises to be an amazing booze experience. I steel my nerves. I had been mulling over a plan in my head. Suddenly, Michael spins back around to his laptop to save his work for the night. I instantly grabbed the bottle of Scotch, rip off the cork and pull the largest swig I thought my mouth could handle. Ambrosia never felt so guilty, so good or so stolen. My amigos stared in disbelief as I calmly replaced the cork in the bottle, set it on the table and rubbed my now fiery belly to let them know I was satiated. 1963 Macallan. Yep! I could cross that one off my list. And it was AMAZING!!!

I am relieved as Michael turns around, oblivious to my actions (I hope) and casually mentions that he needs to go get a coat for the evening. He points to a set of New Belgium Globe Style Glasses in a box on the floor and says ” If there is anything in these bottles that interests you gents, please feel free to have a drink.” He no sooner closes the door to the candy store of Whiskey and us kiddies get our drink on.

Now, we head right for the glasses. There’s about 8 of them we line them up. I grab the 1963 Macallan and pour about 4 fingers. Tom grabs a bottle of 1958 something (it wasn’t very good). Ken, Vince and Dave all find bottles they want to try. Next thing you know, we’ve got 8 globes of Scotch 4 fingers high lined up in front of us. Time never went by so fast as it did that night. Michael left us to our devices for about 15 minutes. (The next morning we’re left wondering if we drank all of them. The consensus is that we were proper drunks and left no booze behind.)

He returns. We’re drunk and heading out for supper I don’t know how dinner went for Michael, it was certainly smashing for the 5 of us on the sauce. Sometime around 11:30 we waived goodbye and caught a taxi home.

You ever have one of those mornings where you forget what went on the night before? Yeah, me either. On the Eurostar ride to Belgium, the five us talked and were only then able to reconstruct what had occured the night before. It was spotty at best. We do know that we shared a meal with Michael in London after drinking ourselves silly in his office.

I doubt very much we were the only ones to ever over indulge in that candy store. Hell, I might not even be the only back woods brewer to ever pug 63 Macallan right from the bottle. I suppose, I should have told this story to Michael in the last year. Then, I could have popped the cap from a vintage Cuvee de Tomme and had him steal a swig or two from the bottle. Then we’d be even? Doubtful? He afforded me so much. For that, I am thankful.

Either way, when it comes down to it, life is about the moments we live, the beers we drink and the stories we share. I suppose stolen drams of Scotch probably need their own category as well. That night in Michael’s office ranks as an all timer. Just like him. Today is a sad day indeed. One that requires more than a few liquid refreshments. I only wish he was here to share.

Join us for a Pre-Stone Anniversary Brunch

You’re invited to join the Port Brew / Lost Abbey crew for brunch in advance of Stone Brewing’s 11th Anniversary Celebration.

Chef Vince will be cooking up a hearty breakfast that includes eggs, bread, at least five or six pork products, and, of course, plenty of our award-winning beers — freshly filled Casks of Hop 15 and Wipeout IPA and some wacky things from the barrel room.

Brunch starts at 8:30am and the food is FREE. (Our beers will also be poured at the Stone Party.)

» Download the Brunch Brochure (Acrobat PDF file)

Directions to Port Brewing / Lost Abbey

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Wall Street Journal Loves The Angel’s Share

From the article

Our favorite was Port Brewing’s Angel’s Share, which weighs in at a hefty 12.5% alcohol and is aged in brandy barrels for six to eight months. It tastes and smells like port, prompting one of our testers to say he could imagine sipping a glass of it on a winter evening by the fire.

» Read the full article (Via Wall Street Journal)

Lost Abbey First Annual Barrel Tasting

Award-winning Brewery to tap one of the nation’s largest barrel collections for a special evening of rare beers and fine foods

San Marcos, Calif. – Port Brewing/Lost Abbey will hold its first annual Barrel Tasting the evening of August 25, 2007. Limited to just 100 people, guests will join award-winning brewer Tomme Arthur and other members of the Lost Abbey family for an evening of food and sampling of craft brews aged as long as 18 months in French Oak, Brandy, and Bourbon barrels.

Slated to be tapped that evening:

  • Amazing Grace – Barrel Aged Lost and Found, aged nine months in French oak
  • Red Poppy – Lost Abbey’s first release. Aged with sour cherries for one year in French oak
  • Older Viscosity – Barrel aged Old Viscosity, 9 months in fresh Bourbon barrels
  • The Angel’s Share – Previously unreleased. Aged 18 Months in Brandy
  • Cuvee de Tomme – Second limited release, 9 Months in oak

Arthur will also be preparing a special limited-release blend just for guests of the Barrel Tasting event.

With one of the largest barrel collections in the United States, the Lost Abbey has gained a reputation as a source of some of the finest and most eagerly anticipated beers in the country. However, it’s small size and lengthy brewing and aging process limit the brewery’s production, making its releases highly coveted and sought after by aficionados. Barrel Tasting guests will be among a relative handful to sample the rarities from the brewer’s collection.

The Barrel Tasting will be held Saturday, August 25, 2007 at Port Brewing / Lost Abbey in San Marcos, Calif. The event runs from 6pm to 9:30pm. Attendance is limited to 100 people. Tickets are $50 per person and include the tastings, and a specially prepared selection of foods and hor d’ oeuvres. Guests will also have the opportunity to reserve a personal allotment of the releases sampled that evening.

For more information and ticket purchases, visit the Lost Abbey website at: http://www.lostabbey.com/event_barrel_party.php.

About Port Brewing / Lost Abbey
Founded in 2006, Port Brewing Company produces a line of award-winning American ales as well as the groundbreaking Lost Abbey family of Belgian-inspired beers. Craft brewed under the direction of co-founder and two-time Great American Beer Festival brewer of the year, Tomme Arthur, four beers are issued under the Lost Abbey label year-round: Avant Garde, Lost and Found, Red Barn and Judgment Day. Additionally, a number of seasonal and specialty releases including Ten Commandments, Cuvee de Tomme and the Angel’s Share, are offered at various times throughout the year. As many of these are blended and aged for up to 18 months in French Oak, Brandy and Bourbon barrels, Lost Abbey beers are universally recognized for their complexity, unique flavors, and bold, boundary-pushing styles. Port Brewing is located at 155 Mata Way, Suite 104, San Marcos, CA 92069, USA. Telephone (760) 889-9318, web: www.lostabbey.com.

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Media contact:
Sage Osterfeld
tel: (760) 295-4490
email: sage @ bluntid.com

The Legend of Timmee Edwards

When I was growing up, my family made an annual visit to a small campground known as Limekiln State Beach just south of Big Sur, California. Each and every August, we would hitch my grandparents 5th wheel trailer to the back of my dad’s large pickup truck and go beach camping as our family vacation.

It was usually a week long trip punctuated by a short detour to Monterey, California so that my father could watch the historic car races at Laguna Seca. I suppose this yearly indoctrination into motorsports (with an eye on the classics) taught me about passion and a metalic vs fiberglass artform.

My father was and always as been an admirer of Ferraris. Many of the automobiles that we would go to watch race had been champion GT racers back in the late 50’s and 1960’s. It was an amazing experience to walk amongst these great cars and their storied legacies. And the Italians taught me a thing or two about passion.

I haven’t been back to Laguna Seca in years but to this day, I am still a “fan” of auto racing. I enjoy the speed, the crashes and the fantastic finishes. I don’t travel to watch races but I have been known to get caught up watching them on TV. Best of all, they are excellent companions to beer drinking. I should also point out, that brewing is a lot like racing. You get to drink lots of beer, there’s always danger and flames involved and you have to fix things that are always breaking down at the wrong time.

Last night reminded me of this. I spent 3 hours watching Jimmies, Bobbies, Elliot’s and William’s (err Bill’s) turn make left turns for hours on end. And you know what, I did it without a lite or extra cold beer in site. Although, I also dozed off for a bit and found myself in a NASCAR slumber.

Stretched out on the couch, and having nodded off, I had this reincarnation of sorts. I was no longer Tomme Arthur. Nope, my marketing gurus had shortened my names to something less Germanic and more marketable. In a flash, I had become Timmee Edwards. Now Timmee sounds and looks like Tomme. I even had a drunken female fan once call me Timmy at a beer fest so it can’t be that far off base. Edward is my middle name so they were keeping it in the “family” I suppose.

Now, in my dream, I was actually a brewer. And like NASCAR drivers, I was a figurehead. I was the front man, pitch man and spokesperson for a group of people known as Port Brewing and The Lost Abbey. This meant that I had a team who supported me (not unlike a real brewery) and obligations to the fans and my sponsors…

Did I just say sponsors? Brilliant! This is what every brewer needs if we are going to take this Craft Brewing thing to the next level. Sure, I don’t think wearing a boil retardant jump suit is how myself or Brooklyn Oliver (Garret’s new more racing like name) want to go through life. Of course, he already has more patches than I do. But sponsors have their demands. And one of them is product placement. So we’ll have to wear the patches as badges of honor.

My new marketing guys drew me into one of their strategic meetings and I found myself being asked to work up a list of potential suitors. I started to imagine all of the possibilities for “financing” our operation here in San Marcos. It started with a title sponsor. Every big time operation needs one of these. You gotta think big when it comes to this. So, I started thinking. Well, on many mornings, I am known to throw back a Dr Pepper or two (leaded and unleaded I like them both) for sponsor sake. That’s pretty big time.

I could be the first Professional Brewer to be sponsored by a soda company. What sort of message would that send? Would it help me with MADD? Doubtful. Nothing short of being sponsored by a water company could help me there. A water company? Why of course, I drink water each and every day. But then again, most of them are owned by soda corps.

I watched a guy named Ricky smash up his Snicker’s Car last night. Maybe I could get me a Candy manufacturer to sponsor me? Sure thing. I like all kinds of Candy. How about we go after Mentos? They seem to be all the rage on the internet these days. We could use an internet presence.

Nope, tried the Mentos thing. They’ve already partnered with Diet Coke so Timmee Edwards is out of luck there. Well, how about a local angle? We could go and get WD-40? They are a local based company with national distribution. Besides, who doesn’t need a good penetrating lubricant? I hear old people even use it on their joints for their arthritis?

All of these options left my head spinning so I left the Marketing guys in their meeting and headed out to a brewer’s meeting. I’ve been on the circuit for quite a few years now so I know most of the guys pretty well. I know which way Robby Tod leans at the end of each night. I’ve come to the conclusion that Good Old Dickie Canwell was right in dropping that “T” from his last name. Can’t just isn’t in his vocabulary when it comes to brewing.

Some of the Brewers were grumbling as usual.Not everybody was happy when the Brewer’s Association signed that contract. A few felt that they would be slighted. Lord knows our “sport” should focus on everyone and not a select group of media darlings. They cried out.

It was a tough transition on some of the old guard. They weren’t ready to be placed in uniforms and drug through the pomp and cirmcunstances required by a move to the big time. A few of these old timers looked like Stay Puff Marshmellow Men in these Brewing Suits. I suppose that’s TV for you. It adds ten lbs too. But, that’s what happens when you sign a multi year deal with the network. They own you.

It sucks. Each and every year, we now have commercial breaks during the awards ceremony at the GABF. Didn’t use to be that way. What can I say? That’s the price we pay for dreaming big. Our Annual Craft Brewers Conference is now a Dog and Pony show more about interviews and autographs. Everything it seems is all about the fans. And now that we’ve taken this thing to the next level, we’ll have cool stuff like Timme Edwards 08 for Play Station. From the Marketing materials…

“If you’ve ever wanted to be like Timmee, here’s your chance. You’ll be given the same ingredients and budgets as Timmee. See if you can out manuever, outlast and out think a great brewer. Do you have it in you? Can you take down Cuvee de Tomme or The Angel’s Share?

There will of course be interactive fan forums. These will be up close and personal meet and greet sessions. Timmee will of course oblige the sensible fans and sign all manner of body parts from the most discerning of female fans. Male fans need not bother.

In order to create some interest and drama, we’ll all have to stop getting along. We’ll need a bad boy or two. Somebody who is always crossing over the line, flirting with the rules. “If you ain’t cheating, you ain’t brewing.” That’s what they tell me…

We’ll have to develop a chase for the cup system. We’ll need an annual cup system to determine the ”Best” brewer. Of course the network will have a say in this. It will be in our best interest to let an outside organization tell us what we need.

And after 20 years of major sponsorships, network deals and in fighting, we’ll all be able to sit around as we enshrine the old guard and indoctrinate the new guard each year at a televised awards show. Someday, I will have a need to retire from this sport. I’ll be too old to Dry Hop Well. I won’t have the vision to create things like Cuvee any more. And each and every day, there will be some hot shot young Turk looking to get up in my grill and disrepect my knowledge of Brewing. It’s inevitable.

But when it’s time for me to retire from this sport, I want my plaque to read “This good old boy was a master at mashing left and but let’s not forget he was pretting good at hopping right as well…”

That my friends is the Legend of Timmee Edwards. It is neither fact nor fiction. What is true is that when I woke up from my nap last night, some guy named Jimmie had turned left for 500 miles and won the race. Not bad for another guy from San Diego.

Cuvee de Fruit Beer?

Is it really already August? It feels like I just put my #5 session July blog to bed last week. Feels strange to be working on Session # 6. Today, we’ve been instructed to Blog about Fruit beers. YIPEE!!! I am sure most of you at home are saying.

Fruit beers, you either love them or hate them. Too often, these are not really good beers and back in the 90’s when I started brewing, fruit beers were all the rage. Everytime you visted a brewery, it seemed that somebody was a making a Raspberry something or other. I am so glad that trend went by the wayside. I can recall numerous brewpubs making base beers and then adding gallons of some sort of extract to make fruit flavored beer. Most of them Sucked. I know. I made one as well.

During the fruit beer explosion, I started snooping around trying to learn as much as I could about the production methods for Rodenbach and Lambics. Rodenbach had a beer called Alexander that was made with sour Cherry essence. It wasn’t my favorite of the three beers but it was still pretty damn good.

Sometime between 1996 and 1997, my mentor/boss at Cervecerias La Cruda, Troy Hojel acquired a rather exhausting disertation on the Acid Ales of Roselare (Rodenbach). It was an amazing body of work that detailed the production methods of Classic Rodenbach and Rodenbach Grand Cru. I spent hours each month reading and re reading this disertation. It inspired me to create the beer I am drinking now- Cuvee de Tomme.

I chose to open a bottle of the newest batch of Cuvee we released in May thus violating one of my last posts where I mentioned that I never drink beers such as Cuvee alone. But in the spirit of the session, I felt compelled to write about Cuvee de Tomme. Why, you ask? Well, it is perhaps the one beer amongst all others that I have created that has been written about the most. As such, it’s a known entity. It also has a pretty cool history that I felt like sharing as I am drinking this beer. So let’s travel back in time before we fast forward in the finish and I spill my drinking beer alone guts about how to make this beer.

In 1998, two monumental things happened enabling me to be bring Cuvee to life. First, I received a catalog in the mail which set my mind spinning. (And no, I was not at that time receiving Victoria Secret catalogs five times a year). I was flipping through the mail one day and a random catalog showed up. In this catalog were numerous fruits and vegetables. Many of the things in the catalog I could order locally but there was one line that caught my eye. It said “Fresh Frozen Sour Cherries.”

At that very moment, I began to devise a plan for those cherries. They would be part of my first Barrel Aged Belgian Style beer. The beer would bear my name (tongue and cheeky) and it would be a blend of old world barrel aging traditions and new world enthusiasm. Essentially, this is a fancy way of saying we would make it higher in alcohol.

Mind you, this was long before anyone started using the term “Imperial” to describe stronger versions of Traditional styles. As a side note here, I feel so very lucky that no one has ever described Cuvee de Tomme as an “Imperial Sour Red Ale. If they did, I might have to cue the Dark Side music from Star Wars.

Secondly, and equally as important as finding the right cherries, I developed a friendship with Mari Beth Raines. MB as she is known is a Micro Biologist specializing in yeast cultures. She is also a very knowledgeable homebrewer who had worked on her own methods of making Lambic at home. It was her understanding of Brettanomyces and early instruction that laid the groundwork for our Cuvee.

Now that I had the right type of fruit, the essential yeasts for secondary maturation and a pretty good idea of what I wanted to accomplish, I set out to brew the beer and got the project rolling.

The base beer would be known as The Mother of Beers. It was to be a Belgian Dark Strong Ale. The beer was fermented in stainless and then would be aged in oak. I really wanted to use French Oak but at the last minute, I acquired a bourbon barrel from Johnny O at Rock Bottom in San Diego. Every batch we have released so far has been aged in used Bourbon Barrels. We are now using a portion of French Oak in the aging of the 2007 Cuvee which will be released next year. This will be the first time we have used both Bourbon and French Oak

The Mother of All Beers was racked into the Bourbon Barrel and after that I topped up the barrel with three separate strains of Brettanomyces and some sour cherries. As this was an experiment, we made exactly one 55 gallon oak barrel of the original batch.

After filling, I did what any brewer of sour beer does, I waited. About 6 months into the process, I tasted the beer for the first time. It blew me away. I had no idea what to expect but from the first time I tasted it, I knew I was on to something. It had too much bourbon character for my tastes but there was an overwhelming Sour Cherry nose that I still marvel at each time I open bottles of Cuvee de Tomme. I am certain that we can buy cheaper Cherries but the smell is what keeps me paying through the proverbial nose and I don’t care.

In the fall of 2000, we took Cuvee de Tomme to the floor of the Great American Beer Festival and watched as consumers and brewers alike marveled at the depth of the beer. We even had consumers tell us they had taken samples over for Michael Jackson to taste. It was a sureal experience. On that Saturday, I earned my first solo GABF medal for the Cuvee in the Experimental Ale and Lager Category.

In January of 2001, we learned that Cuvee de Tomme had earned the Malt Advocate Domestic Beer of the Year Award. Man, that was some kind of honor. That fall, we sent the beer back to Denver and won another silver medal for the Cuvee. I’m still not sure how it was an experimental beer two years in a row because it had already been done before but I suppose that’s just semantics? Over the years, Cuvee has won numerous awards and continues to be one of the most desirable beers we make.

Now that I have the background information out of the way, let’s fast forward about how to make our Cuvee. First off, you have to have an ego maniac for a brewer. You can half ass this part if you like but it really helps if you have to butter his/her head each day before and after work in order that they might fit their dome through the door frame. If your brewer is successful in recreating this beer, they should be allowed to walk around arrogantly proclaiming their greatness. Lord knows I do. I also figure it’s my duty to share a little known secret that our door jams here in San Marcos are 2 inches wider than standard doors. I just got tired of having to rub Vaseline on my head each day.

Next, this brewer should have complete disregard for the “rules” of brewing. It helps a lot if they are ”fearless.” In Illa Brettanomyces Nos Fides it says over our barrel room these days. Loosely translated this means “In these wild yeasts we trust.” And over the years we have indeed put our trust in them. And we have been rewarded handsomly for our troubles.

By no means should your brewer even bother batch costing this beer. In actuality, they should not pay attention to yields, costs or even sell any of the beer. It will only make the beer less desirable. Is greatness expensive? Damn straight it is. Thank God life takes Visa! The grain bill on this beer is almost all imported malt and any brewer worth their salt wouldn’t consider cutting corners here.

Next, your brewer should select their 4 favorite sugar sources for brewing. In my case, this is malted barley, Dextrose, Raisins and let’s not forget since this is fruit beer day to throw in the sour cherries. You know the ones that cost $4 per pound and get shipped all the way from the East Coast!!!

Lastly, it helps if your brewer is elusive about the details of the beer. It’s like an enigma wrapped in an enigma shrouded in a side of mysteriousness. I’m not sure we have ever made the beer the same way twice. Probably just me being bored? Yet, I know that one of the best parts about brewing a beer like this is opening bottles of it in other places (like Belgium) and watching brewers inhale that first wave of Sour Cherries, dried leather and subtle barrel notes. Then, they take their first sip and the tart cherry flavor mixes with the vanilla and charred oak flavors. They swallow the liquid and a smile comes across their face. It is then and only then that they begin to ask the inevitable questions such as “how did you make this beer?”

So I tell them the same thing. Brew a HUGE Belgian Dark Strong Ale and when it’s done fermenting, throw all the remaining ingredients in a Bourbon Barrel and hope for the best. It’s pretty much what we do year in and out when it comes time to make Cuvee de Tomme.

There’s some serious vodoo going in in those barrels is all that I can say. I sold my soul to Lucifer himself years ago. It’s gonna suck when I leave this glorious world. I hear it’s hot in Hades. But, as long as I inhabit this earth, I am allowed to be proud of this Cuvee de Tomme I have created. Even if it is a damn fruit beer.